Your water heater is most likely the most significant component of your properties plumbing program. plumber in fullerton CA maintained heater can last from ten to fifteen years or far more. But, a heater not correctly maintained can fail in four to six years. The situation of the drinking water in your location and the location of the heater in your house are out of your manage, but proper maintenance of the heater and your plumbing system is crucial to heater longevity and safety.
This post offers you a list of things to check for both tank form and tankless water heaters. As you go through the steps in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your capability, get a professional, licensed plumber involved! You are dealing with hot water, organic gas, and electricity!
Tank Kind Water Heater Maintenance:
Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)
The vent should be the very same diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent should really go commonly “up and out” the ceiling.
Where is passes through the exterior wall, the vent really should be double-walled.
Vent sections should be screwed collectively with a minimum three screws per section.
Note: Bad vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!
Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is designed to avert the heater from exploding if the water pressure or temperature exceeds protected limits.
Pull up the handle on the valve and water should flow out and cease when you let go of the handle.
The T&P valve has a drain line that really should go down to about six” from the floor or be plumbed outdoors your home.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a negative T&P valve, higher water stress, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.
Water Stress (All Water Heaters)
Water pressure more than 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can harm heaters and your piping. It can also damage plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: One giveaway that your have higher water stress is when the T&P Valve on the heater starts opening and closing.
Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings
Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!
Temperature Handle
Inspect the heater temperature manage dial to insure its set at the appropriate water temperature.
The excellent water temperature is 120° Fahrenheit.
Note: Anything above 120° Fahrenheit drastically increases scalding risk, power use, and sediment develop-up in the bottom of the heater!
Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)
Turn the gas valve handle to “pilot position”.
Remove the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve handle back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber signifies drafting difficulties, combustion problems, fume difficulties, and a fire hazard!
Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)
Make confident the pedestal base the heater rests on is steady and supports the unit.
The common pedestal will keep the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater might have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the require for a pedestal. Verify the owner’s manual for your heater.
Drain Valve
Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
Drain Overflow Pan
If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it should have a drain pan.
The drain pan ought to be plumbed to the outside of your dwelling.
Inspect the situation of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outdoors.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)
Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the high-quality of the air is significant.
Corrosive liquids, ammonia, or acids stored close to a heater can lead to corrosive air.
Note: Corrosive air drawn into the burner can prematurely corrode the heater.
Internal Tank Corrosion and Rust-The internal tank of your heater is constructed of steel and glass lined to avert rust. Sacrificial anode rods are installed in the tank to shield the glass lined internal steel tank from rust. Aluminum/Zinc or magnesium anode rods corrode over time and get employed up via an electrolytic approach.
Note: Replacing the anode rod can extend the life of the heater but, need to be completed by a educated, skilled service technician.
Sediment Develop-up-Sediment is produced when tough water is heated. The make-up of sediment in the bottom of the tank can result in the bottom to overheat and melt away the glass lining of the tank. It can drift into recirculating lines, jam open verify valves, and cause the recirculating pump to stick until it burns out. Sediment construct-up on the bottom of gas water heaters encourages noisy operation. The noise is brought on by modest amounts of water beneath the sediment layer turning into steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.
Note: Sediment construct-up can lessen the power efficiency of the heater and void the warranty on some Residential Water Heaters!
Tankless Water Heater Maintenance:
Flushing-Most tankless water heater suppliers propose flushing the complete unit each six months to 1 year based upon the water excellent. Reference your manufactures recommendation for flushing. Flushing the unit on a regular basis removes any mineral deposits (usually calcium or lime) that may possibly have built up inside the boilers. Suppliers advocate utilizing a utility pump to circulate three or 4 gallons of vinegar or yet another low-grade acid for 45 minutes to clean out any deposits.